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Xpress Aluminum Bay Boats
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Ray
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 8:30 pm    Post subject: Xpress Aluminum Bay Boats Reply with quote

Does anyone use this brand bay boats? The are good looking but not a flashy as the major brands like Majek, Transport, etc. Metal just doesn't sell as high I guess, but they are supposedly really tough, with a lifetime hull warranty.

I looked at a 20 foot blown on bed liner like covering, right around $28,000.00, boat, trailer, and 115 Yamaha, and now I'm trying to decide if a $28,000.00 aluminum bay boat makes sense. Shorter are cheaper, but I thought longer would give a better ride. What do you think?

Thanks!!!!

Ray
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ironmanstan
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 4:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Way to expensive for an aluminum boat. You can get a Majek with a 115 cheaper than that. Where did you look at that xpress? I have always had an aluminum rig good tough and light weight. However my Majek is built like a tank. 18 ft 115 good on gas and runs as shallow as a human needs to go not to flashy built for function. Sometimes I do miss my 16 ft with a 40hp aluminum flat bottom weld-craft.
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Ray
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I looked at it at Yowell's Boat Yard in Waco.

I know zero about boats and a lot more about kayaks, although I'm not an expert there either, just bought several over the years and know what I like.

I am hesitant to pull the trigger, and am trying to learn more, so I can make a good decision on whether I really want to do this or not.

Ray
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ironmanstan
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ray this is my personal opinion only. If you are looking for your first time boat to learn with. A basic all welded 16- 18 foot aluminum with nothing but a tiller steering outboard is the most functional, light mantainance, shollow running, light weight, easy launching, cheap to run powered boat there is. Now you can go up from there to such things as center console etc. Oh...make sure you get an aluminum trailer.
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LagunaRed



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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 7:13 am    Post subject: New boat Reply with quote

I was in the same situation as you a few weeks ago. Boats have gone up so much. I too looked into possibly getting an aluminum boat to hold down the cost. After lots of test rides and boat quotes I bought a 19ft Explorer made by Dargel with a 115 eTech. It a low side boat with a modified tunnel. It rides smooth and is great on gas. I bought it from Waypoint marine on SPID and was very satisfied with their service. Hope that helps a little.
Good fishing!!
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ironmanstan
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ironmanstan wrote:
Ray this is my personal opinion only. If you are looking for your first time boat to learn with. A basic all welded 16- 18 foot aluminum with nothing but a tiller steering outboard is the most functional, light mantainance, shollow running, light weight, easy launching, cheap to run powered boat there is. Now you can go up from there to such things as center console etc. Oh...make sure you get an aluminum trailer.


remember wide on the aluminum boat the wider the better like lets say, 16 ft ong and 56" wide no less. with a vee bow not a square nose skow bow.
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Jellyfish
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 7:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

X 2 on the aluminum trailer, unless you are planning to keep it for less than 18 months. You might even consider a good used rig to start off with as it will already have the first scratch or ding on it. And it can still be good for trade-in on a new rig when you're ready.
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landlocked beachbum
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you go aluminum just make sure that the interior of the transom isn't wood, if possible. Even if it's "marine plywood" or pressure treated, rot isn't the reel issue. Over time (and not very long) the wood WILL begin to absorb and hold water. This is even worse with salt water, because even if you have enough heat and time to evaporate most of the moisture, the salt stays and grows in concentration over time. This salt and moisture in the wood will set up a low current battery effect between the aluminum and stainless steel bolts used to mount the motor. Anywhere that the salt/moisture impregnated wood touches the aluminum will slowly start setting up corrosion, eventually eating holes through the these areas of the transom.

I know of what I speak.................... I just sold my old 1994 Lowe Panfisher, which was all aluminum. The transom was littered with corrosion holes, and although one might say "big deal, it's 18 years old", the first holes started appearing a good 10 years back. If you know anything at all about aluminum, what you see as a corrosion pinhole on the outside is usually a BIG area of corrosion on the inside!!!!! Shocked Embarassed Rolling Eyes

Another issue with aluminum is battery isolation. Since the motor is mounted on the aluminum covered transom and the whole boat is aluminum, there will always be a small current drain on the battery even with everything off. For those who doubt me; take a multimeter out to your boat and put the red lead on the positive battery terminal and the black lead on any part of the hull. You will see a rise in the needle or a small current on a digital meter. Then move the dial to ohms and touch the leads together, making sure that you continuity. Now put one lead on the negative battery post and one on the hull, and you will see continuity!

This may or may not be an issue if you use you boat a lot, but I've had my battery discharge overnight before, to the point that I didn't have enough juice to crank the engine! This was with EVERYTHING off, but the transom of the boat sitting in the water (saltwater). I could only surmise that the grounding of the hull in an electrolyte rich environment (saltwater) caused a much increased battery drain through the hull. I finally stopped this by installing a battery isolation/shut off switch. Doing the same tests with the multimeter and the switch off did indeed show no current flow from the positive post.

Sorry to be so long, but maybe I can save someone the hassles that I've had over time!
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horse51
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

personnally if you have a yak then you can get to most fish. boats are expensive and sometimes a pain to keep maintained. with that said. it is also an awesome feeling to be headed out on a boat as the sun rises. i got a 93 blue wave classic t a while back for a steal and had to do alot of work on it. most cosmetic since the carpet was torn up. and scratches in the hull. but since its been fixed with the exception of some minor electrical problems it has been a great learning boat and i have learned alot from doing all the work myself. it sucks gas but can run in less than a foot of water. if you have no experience on a boat then a good used boat will be perfect. as mentioned abot the explorer by dargel is a really nice boat. my buddy has a 21 footer and loves it.
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Ray
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I bought a 19ft Explorer made by Dargel with a 115 eTech. It a low side boat with a modified tunnel. It rides smooth and is great on gas.


Mike,

What did that boat cost you? New or used?

Ray
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Ray
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 7:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Sorry to be so long, but maybe I can save someone the hassles that I've had over time!
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That sounds like good information to me. There is no wood on the Xpress boats according to the dealer, just aluminum and foam between the inner and outer layer with bedliner-like material over that.

Ray
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Ray
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, folks, I don't know how I am going on this, if I will buy or won't, but I knew I would get great information if I asked.

Ray
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BishopRyan
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ironmanstan wrote:
Ray this is my personal opinion only. If you are looking for your first time boat to learn with. A basic all welded 16- 18 foot aluminum with nothing but a tiller steering outboard is the most functional, light mantainance, shollow running, light weight, easy launching, cheap to run powered boat there is. Now you can go up from there to such things as center console etc. Oh...make sure you get an aluminum trailer.

remember wide on the aluminum boat the wider the better like lets say, 16 ft ong and 56" wide no less. with a vee bow not a square nose skow bow.
Good advice here over your last few posts.

This is basically what I got but slightly wider. I paid 2k for it. I couldn't see spending more than 3-4 on a newer used one. I can run in about 2' of water but anything less than that its gets a little shaky.

At 16 foot and about 6 foot wide we actually fish 4 on some occasions. Two is ideal. The only downside to not having a center console or traditional boat is vision while you're boating. You're basically sitting while you steer so water, dust and everything else is getting blown in your face all while you line of vision is only a few feet above water level.

If I were to spend anything over 10k I'd buy a traditional center console with nice canopy for shade. Canopy attachments just don't work with these boats, they're just awkward and in the way. So in the summer after about 2pm you pretty much call it a day or you're going to bake.

But for budget fishing I get just about anywhere. I can't run from packery to the land cut but I can fish a number of places for 6-8 hours without even coming close to running low on gas and with only a 6 gallon tank.
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ironmanstan
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 10:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never had any battery problem not once, or transom problems. Just never ground any wires to your aluminum hull and put your battery in a battery box.
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landlocked beachbum
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stan, I never did either until I did!!!!! Embarassed Embarassed Embarassed

Personally, I would never again buy an aluminum bought unless it was STRICTLY for freshwater use. Even then, if you keep the boat long enough, galvanic corrosion will still set in between any dissimilar metals that go through the hull like the transom drains, motor mount bolts, SS mounting bracket and screws for a transducer, etc.. I guess it all depends on how long one is going to keep and/or use the boat and expect it to still be in good to very good shape shape, not to mention what it will be worth down the pike.

We paid $7400 in 1994 for our rig; boat, 40HP and trailer. I checked it's value 3-4 years ago on Kelly Blue Book and even then and in "good condition", it was only worth $1400. I was asking $1000 and wound up with $850..................................
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